Skip to main content
    FC

    Free Chlorine

    Free chlorine is the active sanitiser in pool and some spa water. It kills bacteria, algae, and viruses on contact.

    Units: ppm · Last reviewed May 12, 2026

    Why it matters

    Below the minimum, the pool is no longer sanitary. Above the maximum, swimmers experience skin and eye irritation.

    Ideal ranges

    Water typeIdealAcceptable
    Chlorine pool1 to 4 ppm
    Salt chlorine pool1 to 4 ppm
    Spa (chlorine)3 to 5 ppm
    After shockbelow 5 ppm before swimming

    How to test

    1. 1

      FAS-DPD drop test for accuracy

      Taylor K-2006 is the standard. Reads up to 50 ppm in 0.2 ppm increments.

    2. 2

      Test strips for daily checks

      Acceptable for routine. Drop kit weekly to verify.

    3. 3

      Test in the morning before sun burns off chlorine

      Afternoon readings will look low.

    How to correct low free chlorine

    1. Add liquid chlorine or cal hypo

      Fastest way to raise FC. 1 gallon of 10 percent liquid chlorine per 10,000 gallons raises FC by ~10 ppm.

    2. Salt pool: increase chlorinator output

      Bump 10 percent at a time. Verify cell is clean and salt level is correct.

    3. Check CYA

      High CYA (over 50) suppresses chlorine effectiveness. May need to drain and refill.

    How to correct high free chlorine

    1. Stop adding chlorine, let sunlight reduce it

      FC drops 1 to 3 ppm per sunny day depending on CYA.

    2. Use sodium thiosulfate to neutralise quickly

      Only if you need to swim immediately. Throws off other chemistry.

    Common causes

    • Heavy use, rain, or hot weather burns chlorine fast
    • Algae bloom consumes chlorine
    • Salt cell dirty or undersized
    • Sunlight degrades chlorine without CYA buffer

    FAQs

    What is the FC/CYA ratio?

    Free chlorine should be at least 7.5 percent of CYA. So 30 ppm CYA needs minimum 2.25 ppm FC. This is the Trouble Free Pool standard.

    Related parameters